Phare, the Cambodian Circus
There are many things to do in an evening in Siem Reap. Phare is the one we recommend without reservation to everyone, regardless of whether they think they like circus, theatre, or performance art. It is that good and that different from anything else available here.
What Phare Is
Phare, the Cambodian Circus is a professional performance company based in a purpose-built big top tent near the Old Market in Siem Reap. The performers are acrobats, musicians, actors, and dancers who tell stories drawn from Cambodian history, folklore, and contemporary life through a combination of physical theatre, extraordinary acrobatics, live music, and drama. Shows run approximately one hour. The production changes regularly and the company has a rotating roster of original shows, each with a distinct story and style. No two visits are the same.
The performances are not decorative. They deal with real subjects. The Khmer Rouge. Poverty. Family. Identity. The distance between rural and urban Cambodia. They do so through physical storytelling that is accessible to anyone regardless of language, and with a level of skill and commitment that would be remarkable on any stage in the world.
The Organisation Behind It
Phare is run by graduates of Phare Ponleu Selpak, a non-profit arts school founded in Battambang in 1994 by nine young men returning from a refugee camp after the Khmer Rouge period. An art teacher had used drawing as therapy during their time in the camp. They came home and built a school around that idea. It is now one of the most respected arts education organisations in Southeast Asia, providing entirely free education in circus, visual arts, music, theatre, dance, animation, and graphic design to over a thousand students per year.
Phare graduates have performed with Cirque du Soleil. The school in Battambang runs its own circus shows for visitors who make the trip.
Every ticket you buy contributes directly to the school and to the living wage of the performers. It is one of the very few tourist experiences in Siem Reap where the money you spend has a clear and traceable impact on the people you are watching.
The Evening
The big top is on Ring Road just south of the Sok San Road intersection. Phare Cafe and Phare Boutique open from 5.30pm. The cafe serves Cambodian street food from $1 with local chefs preparing dishes to order. The boutique sells original artwork by students, handicrafts, and circus merchandise. Pre-show entertainment runs before the main performance.
The main show starts at 8pm and runs one hour. After the show audiences are invited to meet, photograph, and talk with the performers. Arrive at least 30 minutes before showtime as late entry is not permitted once the performance has started. Sections A and B have the best sightlines. Some spots in Section C have partial obstructions from support pillars.
Tickets cost from around $18 for Section C to $38 for Section A. A Phare Insider VIP option includes a backstage tour. Book online at pharecircus.org. Performances run most evenings with occasional dark nights. Check the schedule before you go. During peak season between November and February book several days in advance.
A matinee at 5pm runs three times weekly on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays during the high season from November to March.
The Honest View
We see a lot of tourists go to Pub Street every night and miss Phare entirely. That is their choice and Pub Street is fine. But Phare is one of the genuinely exceptional things in this city, one of those experiences that people remember for years, and it is here because of a specific place and a specific history that does not exist anywhere else. If you only have one evening for something beyond the usual, this is it.
